
Jane Hoskins and Mary Benson pose for a Kodak moment on their trip to Montanas Lake Koocanusa and the Canadian border.
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My Montana experience began with a trip to the Bar W Guest Ranch.
Located on Highway 93 West just outside of Whitefish, the ranch is in a
postcard-perfect setting, nestled in a small valley overlooking Spencer Lake.
Throughout this evergreen canopy, which seems to stretch from the ranch to the
Rocky Mountains, springs a myriad of beautiful woodland trails.
Lake Adventure
As part of the Bar W’s innovative Cowgirl-Up package, one of the
adventures planned for us was a trip north to Lake Koocanusa and the Canadian
border. There, we could ride along the 300-mile fence line that divides Montana,
Idaho, and Washington from the Canadian provinces of Alberta and British
Columbia. CBS news had recently run a commentary on the wild mustangs captured
in the area and trained as Border Patrol horses.
Lake Koocanusa is the result of a joint project between the United
States and Canada to provide flood protection from the ever-fluctuating Kootenai
River. The 422-foot-tall Libby Dam holds back the 90-mile-long Lake Koocanusa
Reservoir, providing a large recreational water area with many fish species. The
name "Koocanusa" is a combination of the KOOtenai River, CANada, and USA.
The ranch provided us with sturdy little mountain horses, many of
them purchased from the Blackfeet Indians and wearing the distinctive Blackfeet
brand. We trailered through an ever-changing backdrop of sagebrush hills,
snowcapped mountains, and open fields studded with horses to a trailhead near
Swisher Lake. Then it was time to ride!
On the Border
Once underway, we found ourselves meandering through groves of
ponderosa pines interspersed with several old logging roads crisscrossing in all
directions. Various parts of the forest had suffered from past wildfires, giving
birth to semi-cleared spaces now being taken over by the field grasses, albeit
sparse and brittle after the early fall frost.
Suddenly, we were confronted by a long wire fence that was more
decorative than functional. We had reached the borderline.
My mount was a rangy gray Arabian-type gelding named Abu. In my
mind, Abu morphed into the proverbial white desert stallion, a Pegasus taking
flight.
As we were "flying" along the beach, above us, a bald eagle
perched on the topmost branch of a lone pine rooted on an upward cliff. Leah,
one of our wranglers, spotted it first and told us she would try and call it
down from its roost. We waited, listening as she emitted a series of raucous
cries, and then watched, spellbound as the eagle swooped like an arrow straight
toward us. He’d interpreted Leah’s call as one of his kind and was in direct
flight to seek it out. Sensing his mistake, he changed course, leaving us in
awe.
Lake Koocanusa is an immense turquoise jewel shimmering with
flecks as windswept waves pushed their way to shore. The lake’s beach was our
lunch spot. Adding dimension to the long stretches of pure sand were scatterings
of small stones and rocks of amazing shades of blues, pinks, and purples, the
source of much of the fine jewelry created by Montana craftspeople.
Leaving the lake, we rode through an opening leading up to the
forested ridges. One last look at our newfound paradise rewarded us with a burst
of sun, illuminating the yellowing grasses into brilliant gold that contrasted
with the cool greens and blues of the lake.
By late afternoon, we’d wound our way back to the trailer. This
had been the ride of a lifetime!